Saving the Best for (almost) Last

Friday, September 18

One of the reasons we booked a stay at Phinda Reserve is because Martha had done her homework. She knew that here we had a good chance of seeing lions in the wild. Lions require lots of space to roam and Phinda complies.

Walter and SK went out of their way for Gina on Thursday evening. The elephants had been hiding and she was hoping to see one, or even a couple, before she and Stuart had to head back to the UK. Eighty elephants were delivered. The group teased our guides that we now expected no less than 80 lions.

There was a report that some lions roamed in the southern end of the park so we headed that direction first thing in the morning. It was cold and gray. A few zebras, another elephant and a few fun birds kept us motivated and hopeful.

The hippos were hiding in the water, warmer there than lounging beside the water.



We had covered a lot of ground and it seemed like a long ride already. Walter stopped and SK broke out the hot chocolate while we stretched our legs.

Walter got a call that some lions were about an hour away. He put us on the list for clearance to this restricted area. An hour away.... hmmmm...we had a tough decision to make. We agreed to head back to the lodge and try for lions in the afternoon. My heart sank a bit. We had only one more drive left before we had to leave and the pickin's were slim as the winds started to blow on this cold and misty day.

Just a few minutes into our drive back to the lodge, Walter rounded a corner and we all just about screamed--fortunately we chose a collective gasp instead. At the edge of the road sat two lionesses.

Walter zipped backward to give SK some space to climb into the car and out of danger. We drove forward. The lionesses were not at all worried about our sudden invasion of their space.












Eventually they noticed us and walked slowly by each side of the car as they headed off to into the bush.

 
Guess we made the right decision after all.

Tons of Fun

Thursday evening we joined two other couples for our first game drive in Phinda, Mies and Andrew from Holland and Gina and Stuart from the UK.

Our guide, Walter, and his trusty Zulu tracker sidekick, SK, met us in Walter's "office" at 3:30PM for four hours of exploring.

The Phinda reserve is so huge that the drives are longer and they rely on a Zulu tracker who sits on a chair on the hood of the vehicle to identify the tracks in the sand and the direction the animals are headed. If danger is around the next corner, the tracker hops into the vehicle. Thank goodness that they have learned to be quite perceptive and anticipate this change quite well. SK is listening for alarm calls of birds and watching the antsy, tense and twitchy behavior of any other animals in the area.

Walkie-talkie communication between all of the guides and trackers also helps to locate the animals.

It soon became clear to SK and Walter that a whole bunch of elephants were on the move nearby. Their tracks wandered back and forth quite a bit so did we too-- until finally it was discovered that they were headed straight for a pool at a nearby lodge. We drove quickly as the light of day dimmed and Walter positioned us to watch what he imagined might be close to 50 elephants heading for a drink. It would be a surprise for the tourists in this lodge if they happened to be inside!

Out of the woods streamed upwards of 80 elephants!

The sun disappeared quickly and we took a loop through the sand forest with flashlights looking for any nightlife. All was quiet--no complaining here though from this drive. We ended the evening together somewhere in Phinda on a trail with some lamps and a nice spread of snacks, wine and other hot and cold drinks before climbing back into "the office" for the drive to dinner and a good night's sleep.

Monkeys on Deck

Thursday, September 17

On our last morning drive at Zulu Nyala, Alan took us in search of the elephants and cape buffalo again. We found the buffalo herd at a pond. They're eating machines and vacuum up the grass as they wander.

The highlight of this drive: for an hour we watched the two adult females and the baby rip down and munch on tree branches. There is no mistaking the groaning, cracking, and popping as elephants tug branches and push tree trunks.

We witnessed moments of tenderness in the wild when the matriarch found a ditch to back into and she bent down on one knee to match the height of the baby. The two then softly played with their trunks twisting and entwining them gently and lovingly.

This drive was a short one as Martha as I were to head this morning to Phinda for our final two days. The somewhat teary goodbyes surprised us all but on reflection, they shouldn't have. Our guide Alan, Jeff, Pam, Debbie and Barbara are new friends now from South Africa, Colorado and New Hampshire. Our six days together were filled with gentle fun-loving Zulu people, shy and aggressive animals, birds and plants we'll likely never see again and stunning sunsets. You miss it all well before you leave it.

Phinda is a gigantinc neighboring reserve.

Eunice met us at the end of the path in the sand forest with fresh grape juice and towels to clean our hand and faces. Our luggage was wisked away and we headed to wait by the pool

 
until our room at Forest Lodge was ready. Enter more monkeys wondering what treats await their swift hands. Not at all sneaky as they jump and skip through the tree tops, once on land though, they become the best of thieves.

Both Zulu Nyala and Phinda provide the vervet monkeys with excellent opportunities to steal the food of visitors. They know a good thing when the see and smell it. The cooks at the game reserves create masterpieces of beauty and flavor on every plate. Monkey bouncers, as I called them, walked through the open air dining areas with big sticks threatening the monkeys.

The monkeys are patient and fast. They win often enough that the threats really don't seem to matter.

Our room is ready.

Giraffic Park

Wednesday, September 16

The mornings seem fairly calm and quiet at Zulu Nyala. Giraffe, by the dozens,
walked by ponds 
and pruned the acacia trees.

We added a wildebeest and gray duiker to the life list.

For the afternoon ride, Martha, teasing of course, put in a request to see cape buffalo which had eluded us as we hopped into the land rover. I requested a leopard. We had begun to believe Alan was a safari magician-making animals appear around the next corner somehow. We figured the requests would be no big deal to honor. Martha spotted the cape buffalo, a large herd of about 25 animals. Alan drove right smack dab into the middle of the group—very old to very young and--as you might remember-- they are the second most aggressive animal toward humans. 

They grazed around us while we snapped photos for about 30 minutes.

We drove until well after sundown, and with a flashlight Alan hunted for a leopard. A few pairs of bird and genet eyes glowed back at us. No cats. Dinner, usually warthog or impala fixed various ways, occasionally chicken or fish, salad, bread, soup, vegetables was followed by homemade desserts. We spent part of the evening packing up to head to Phinda when a knock came on our door. Our next-door neighbor, as she walked to her room from dinner, spied a leopard next to the pool just about 30 yards from our door. The night is young—maybe it will come back.

Last Night

This unfortunately must be short. Martha and I have one more drive left. I have many posts and great photos of our adventures to put up here but access to internet has been difficult. I will not be able to post things until Sunday likely. So please come back for a look.

Tomorrow morning, the flights back to the US begin.

We are now at Phinda reserve. Simply a gorgeous sand forest area. There are cats here so the time you can be out and about on your own is in the early afternoon when drives are not going on and the light is good here. Otherwise you are escorted from place to place.

Just to give you a quick update on some of the animals we have seen--hippos, hippos, hippos, a large herd of cape buffalo, white rhino, and several wonderful visit with elephants as they played together. Last night we watched the treeline as just about 20 yards from us some 80 elephants emerged for a drink--several babies suckling. Today a big surprise --- two lionesses who seemed to not even notice we were around- sat relaxing near the road. They got up and walked right beside our vehicle. We on the hunt for cheetah this afternoon.

Got 'em

Tuesday:

St. Lucia Wetlands

The group headed to St. Lucia this morning for a boat ride. The strong winds and waves made photography challenging and a swim in the Indian Ocean impossible.

The estuary is teaming with bird life,

 
lazy crocodiles and—yes— even lazier hippos!

Several pods of hippos cruised along in the water and dozed at the water’s edge.

Hippo attacks are the number one cause of death for people in Africa and cape buffalo run a close second. Hippos are not carnivores but will fiercely protect their territory.

More than a bit windblown following our boat tour of the estuary, we headed for an afternoon walk through the open markets in town. Everyone will give you a deal at "a very nice price." Several vendors put on their game face as it were, turning on the sad-break-your-heart kind of look as we walked by, then the happy face to family and friends working with them. The forest at the edge of the town has some 20,000 squatters living there, so we’re told.

Our day ended with an excellent dinner of freshly caught slinger and red roman at the north end of St. Lucia. Nine people with drinks, dinner and tip totaled $43 USD.

Siyahamba

Monday:

We hooked up today with a new guide, Sipho, as the rest of our group headed to Phinda Reserve (ph in Zulu is pronounced /p/). Our goal was to bring school supplies that Martha and I had brought from the US to the Nompondo Primary School. The others in our group contributed too so we had quite a nice pile of treasures. Sipho, Martha and I got along so well—we laughed nearly all day long trying to out do each other with quick humor.

In the community of Nomfondo, Mdo explained to us that there is 70% unemployment. People are farmers or work in stores. The poverty is high. In our time here, we met very gracious people.

The primary school is chock full of beautiful children who really want to have their picture taken.

We arrived at recess. We met the principal and gave her the treats and some US dollars which she had never seen before and didn’t know what to make of them. Everywhere we went, the doorways and windows filled quickly with curious dark eyes wondering what was happening. We visited one classroom. They stood when we entered and said “Nice to meet you” In perfectly precise English. They sang two songs for us and I promise you that no sweeter sound could be heard than these voices harmonizing in a room that seemed to be built to bring out the best in each note. In one of our Zulu language “lessons” Mdo and I had sung Siyahamba together as we walked up the hill in the town and he encouraged me to start this song for the children. I began, Mdo joined me and then, after a few phrases, the children stood and sang with us, alternating lines with me and singing the English as well. I will never forget this moment.

The afternoon drive in the reserve was relatively quiet and beautiful. Many giraffe were in full view and not at all skiddish. We added some new birds to the list including a Burchell's coucal.

The warthogs began to dig into the hillsides and bed down for the night and now it is our turn. 

We're off to St. Lucia tomorrow.